Au Chien qui Fume, brasserie on rue du Pont-Neuf since 1740

Au Chien qui Fume, a brasserie on rue du Pont-Neuf in Les Halles, traces its origins to 1740, when a modest inn opened opposite the Halles au Roy, the food market of Paris. Traders, carters and shoppers came in to warm themselves with a pot-au-feu or a glass of wine.

With the great works of the nineteenth century, rue du Pont-Neuf was cut through to serve Les Halles, and the inn was rebuilt on the ground floor of number 33, facing Baltard’s pavilions. It became the haunt of the market porters. In the 1920s a new owner displayed his two dogs, a poodle with a cigar and a griffon with a pipe, and the house took their name.

The market’s move to Rungis in 1971 changed the quarter, but the brasserie stayed. In 1984 its shopfront and interior decor were listed as historic monuments.

In the 1st arrondissement, the house keeps its four glass panels painted with smoking dogs and its wooden counter carved with dogs’ heads. From morning to night it serves the cooking of Les Halles: snails, andouillette, blanquette, pot-au-feu, oysters and seafood platters.