We met Christophe Vasseur, who took over "Du Pain et des Idées" in 2002, originally opened in 1875. It is considered the best bakery in Paris—an institution.
How would you define the term "Parisian institutions"?
First and foremost, an institution is about longevity. You can't call a place an institution if it has only been around for two or three years; it needs at least one, if not two decades. That's when it starts to mean something, especially in the culinary world, where many brands are ephemeral, appearing like comets: they're talked about a lot for a few years, and then they disappear.
I would say an institution is a place that has been around for at least one or two decades and has never compromised on the quality it offered at the beginning. Secondly, it should never succumb to the temptations of expansion. There are exceptions, but they remain rare. An institution stays true to its roots.
Thirdly, to be a true institution, the decor must be timeless and unchanged.
It's a journey through time: you find the same products as when it opened 30 or 20 years ago, and the decor remains the same. It's truly a "madeleine de Proust" for loyal customers, who find exactly the same products in the same atmosphere, served with the same passion.
We want tourists to experience what a real croissant, a real pastry, a real piece of bread is; original products in an authentic setting, far from tourist traps.
Do you have any examples in mind? After a busy day, where do you like to go for a drink or a bite to eat? Do you have any regular spots?
For me, it's Le Verre Volé, right next door. Typically, it's a place where nothing has changed in 25 years. It was a pioneer in natural wines. The food is remarkable, always fantastic. It's a place where I'm never disappointed; the quality is always top-notch, and the menu constantly evolves. It's truly an example of a place that has never compromised its values since the beginning.
When you talk about institutions outside of hospitality, where do you like to go for culture, perhaps in museums or music concerts?
Yes, concerts, but it depends on the artist, not necessarily the venue, although I do particularly like certain venues like La Scala, L'Olympia, and of course, the Comédie-Française for theater.
As for museums, Paris is magical: there's always something to see. Paris has its flaws, but its cultural and creative offerings are incredible. There's nothing quite like it.
When I talk about creativity, it's not just about exhibitions. It's also for someone, for example, who is a restaurateur and looking for inspiration. Even spending a few days in Paris, you find new ideas. Compared to other cosmopolitan cities, I believe there's nothing quite like it at this level.
