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Folderol by GiftShop
Folderol by GiftShop
30 October 2023

Folderol is by no means a concept devoid of meaning, contrary to what its name might suggest. Regulars and tourists alike have come to understand this, as the place - which we would have once kept jealously secret - has become extremely popular. Too popular, according to the locals who still can't get over seeing a crowd of curious onlookers, smartphones and TikTok in hand, queuing up down the street to access the precious treasure: the delicious artisanal ice creams by Jess and Robert, accompanied by their selection of natural wines.

Because, as is often the case with good things, Folderol is above all the result of a love story, where young parents decided to open this establishment. Located just a few meters from their former Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Rigmarole, the idea was to create a place where families could come together for a friendly moment where no one would be excluded: adults toasted while their children tasted the daily flavors displayed on the mirror at the entrance.

Jessica Yang, a Taiwanese-American pastry chef, and Robert Compagnon, a French-American chef, met in the kitchens of Guy Savoy, and later collaborated at Jules Verne, Momofuku Ko, and Per Se. It was in Paris that they expressed their desire to work together in the kitchen and front of house, which materialized with the opening of Le Rigmarole in 2017, followed by Folderol at the end of 2020, at the beginning of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Having followed the journey of this project since its early months, it was with curiosity that I had the opportunity to exchange with Robert and Jess about their passion for craftsmanship and witness their sweet culinary experiments, with undisguised pleasure. Folderol invites you to suggest future ice cream flavors on its website, and I still hold out hope of seeing blackcurrant on the menu (negotiations are ongoing). Generous, the two of them don't hesitate to share their recipes and adjustments, and I eagerly volunteer as a tester whenever possible, always ready to taste the sorbets made from fresh fruits sourced from the local market...

With GiftShop, we wanted to pay tribute to the vintage ice cream bowls that the couple finds at flea markets, which have become the emblem of this magical place. They are so cherished that they regularly disappear... Fortunately, we've found, restored, and engraved them with the famous Folderol logo, and they are now available in very limited quantities.

To these wonders, we've added two flavors of t-shirts for a sweet appetizer: stracciatella and chocolate. They are available for adults, children, and even newborns, in line with the spirit of the place. "The more the merrier!" as they say.

Text and photos: Mathieu Lebreton

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