We met Edip Bolatoglu, who runs the restaurant Özlem, a Parisian Institution.
How would you define the term "Parisian institutions"?
A Parisian institution is a place out of time. You come in, you break away from your habits, you feel good, or you feel like part of the family furniture. Every time, you have the impression that nothing has changed; at the same time, you feel like you are rediscovering the place. For me, that is institutional.
Do you have any examples in mind?
I really like Bistrot Paul Bert; it’s an old-fashioned Parisian brasserie. Le Verre Volé as well. These are places that resonate with me a lot.
How do you feel about the idea that Özlem is in this institutional category?
I have a great sense of pride.
After a busy day, where do you like to go for a drink or a bite to eat? What are your habits?
I sometimes go out to friends' places for a drink, but I also like to go to Brutos.
My second place is called Élément Terre, which is on Rue d'Hauteville, where we enjoy natural wine, where we eat simply, where we disconnect a little from reality, and where we feel good in the intimate setting.
What are your favorite Parisian places (any type: bars, restaurants, bookstores, galleries, etc.)?
For bookstores, there’s one located on Rue du Faubourg Montmartre called Librairie Gourmande.
I also really like a bookstore called Ici Librairie, which is also in Bonne Nouvelle. That’s where I hang out a bit; I have a few books from there.
You are part of Parisian institutions that highlight Turkish cuisine. What do you want to showcase through Özlem?
Even when I took over in 2005, it was a well-known establishment; all the people who followed my father were Turkish speakers and Arabic speakers.
The most complicated aspect was getting the masses to accept that kebabs were not as disparaged as they are often portrayed in the news.
It was absolutely necessary, at least in my opinion, to show these people that kebabs in general, not just döner, were noble and artisanal products, and that these codes needed to change.
What is most complicated, the hardest part of this institutional aspect, is really the rigor, the rigor of doing things well. When past generations come back, they find the same sensations, the same flavors, and that is so important to us. I hope future generations will understand what we are trying to achieve.
